Forget-me-not

I’m harking back to my earlier days and looking for ways to reduce the load on human memory.  Smart watches help with a lot of tasks, but a relatively small number are tasks that matter.  Indeed many of those tasks seem to have been created by other applications that want to grab the remaining 2-3% of our attention that isn’t consumed by Facebook et al. during waking hours.  Have I charged my phone, and where the hell is my phone seem to be common new memory challenges we didn’t used to have.

Wearable devices are increasingly intended to be worn 24 hours a day.  Indeed many watches have programs to measure sleep.  With the Apple watch, it’s a challenge to monitor sleep patterns regularly because the watch needs to be on charge for several hours – presumably overnight.  So the need for either fast charging, or infinite battery life is clear.

One challenge for the designer is making something that users actually find crucial for the daily activities of life.  I contend that telling the time is no longer that important because we all have our phones to hand when we are out – and anyway we are all over-scheduled.  Social media, and email already provide distractions of dubious benefit most of the time.  After a while they become an irritation.

Even if you have an exercise tracker like FitBit, there clearly comes a point for many people when it is no longer necessary to know how far our how fast you walked, or ran.  After a few months you just know.  FirBit gets left behind if it no longer serves a valuable purpose.

Objective 1:  do something new that is new and clearly valuable – not a new, made-up task to sell more advertising.  Then there is some chance it will get used for a long time.
I’d just mention here some work I did on “agenda-benders” and “the frequency and severity of memory failures”.

There’s another challenge for the designer.  When a wearable device is taken off, there is a finite chance that it won’t be put back on.  You’ are probably distracted and forget.  The longer you have it off, the more likely you are to be distracted, and forget.  I speak, at the very least, for myself here.

Even if I took off my watch intending to immediately replace it , there is still some finite chance I would be distracted and forget to replace it (It’s a bastard getting old).   The longer it is off the more likely I am to be distracted. 

My anecdotal studies suggest that for a FitBit with a recharge time of 3 hours, and a battery life of about a week, 50% are discarded after about 6 months.   It would be interesting to know how many Apple watches languish in drawers after 6 months.

Objective 2: minimize time off wrist.

I won’t dwell on the killer app right now, but instead focus on the recharge challenge.

It is probably the case that I can’t make a device that will run forever from whatever energy can be scavenged from the human body’s heat of activity.  But perhaps…

So can I make a device that you don’t have to take off?  What about a device that only has to be taken off for a very short time – before you can be distracted and forget to put it back on.

And then of course there is the infrastructure.  People find it very hard to understand that devices lean on each other for support – especially if some of them don’t seem to do much that’s useful.   Who on earth remembers to replace the battery in a thermostat until the house freezes, or fries? 

In this case the infrastructure are anchors, and they need to be located in places that are not near a source of power.  Alternatively the power cord won’t stretch or is ugly.  Can we make anchors that don’t need power cords.

So I’d like to try out some power strategies by exploring the options for super-short charging, and or no-charging at all – i.e. scavenging.   There is nothing new about this, but I have not seen solutions in this space yet.

Italian teardown translated by google.  Notice battery 190mAh
https://www.tuttoandroid.net/tag/amazfit-bip/#specifiche

Amazfit Bip Hardware

Amazfit Bip offers a complete data sheet, especially in relation to the price at which it is sold. In addition to Bluetooth 4.0 LE connectivity, which allows you to connect it to the smartwatch to synchronize the data collected and to receive notifications from the smartphone, we have an accelerometer, an electronic compass, a green light pulse detector and a GPS module.
We also find a vibration motor for alarm and notification functions and a 190 mAh battery that guarantees exceptional autonomy. If the GPS module is not used and the continuous detection of the heartbeat is not activated, it is easy to exceed the month of autonomy. The GPS module is very precise and increases the attractiveness of a product that stands out compared to the proposals of the competition.
One of the strengths of Amazfit Bip is undoubtedly the 1.28-inch screen. While not offering a particularly high resolution, equal to 176 x 176 pixels, it is perfectly visible in direct sunlight thanks to the transflective technology  At night or in dark environments the screen takes advantage of the LED backlight to ensure a good visibility.

My bip easily lasts a week in normal use.  That’s 190/7 = 27mAh / day.  It takes about 2-3 hours to charge properly.
A supercap like this has about 24mAh capacity.  Datasheet.  The charge time at 1C is 64 minutes.   At 10C it is 6 minutes, but it has to be charged at 240mA.

Six minutes is not my aspirational time,   I was hoping for ~ 1 second, but perhaps it fits into some daily routine TBD.

For your amusement I wondered if there were any open source watch projects that would let you hack BiP for example.  
Surprisingly I found a bunch of watch projects – only one looked like it had got anywhere, and it seems dormant.
AsteroidOS – the most promising because it targeted a bunch of devices, but has gone very quiet
OSWatch – no updates after 2014
Then I found a bunch of DIY everything projects
CulBox – a kickstarter that failed to launch
Instructables –  outstanding:  Smooth finish, and delicate in size.   My favorite by far… based on an Arduino.  Notice the cool way the strap is joined to the case.
 
Not exactly a DIY watch – Blocks – seems to have failed.

Virus-free. www.avast.com

v8

Objectives

Make it even less tight.

Results

I still seem to have the parameters wrong, it seems to be the same size as v7.  What the hell is this geriatric fool doing?

v9

I had a lot of issues getting the damned tophat to stick to the plate.  I discovered there were platen issues.  Someone had gouges indentations in both plates.
The filament was not sticking, and looked like it would end up with an indentation in the side like v7.  I rotated the plate and changed filament and got a decent print.

The good

It actually fits well enough that I have been able to wear it for almost 24 hours continuously.  It is perhaps still a tad tight, but it isn’t worrying me unduly.

The bad

  • The finished object had a lot of minor scarf on it that need picking off because it irritated my wrist, especially at the opening round the circular end.  I scratched it off and it was much better.
  • White shows the dirt!

Improvements

Rounding the end and putting fillets on the both endges of the opening would probably help.

I’ve been playing with e-paper displays a bit, and all of them seem to have some magic power electronics that are not described on the web-sites. However I came across this German company called Plastic Logic that seems to be quite forthcoming.
http://www.plasticlogic.com/products/displays/displays-with-ultrachip

They have a flexible tiny e-paper display and they show the schematics for driving them.

Single voltage power supply (1.7 … 3.6 V), on-chip regulator control for generating driving voltages (external booster circuit required)

Two of there displays seem like they might fit into a cuff, assuming I can figure out how to create a transparent cover.  This might be the show stopper.

The two candidates are
http://www.plasticlogic.com/products/displays/displays-with-ultrachip/3-1-inch-display/
http://www.plasticlogic.com/products/displays/displays-with-ultrachip/1-38-inch-display/

The schematic has a network called “HV booster” that has some scary wiggly components on it.
http://www.plasticlogic.com/wp-content/uploads/Hummingbird_9.5.pdf
I’m wondering if it means I have to make a board, and find some sort of connector?
It appears that this can be interfaced directly to a uC with not extra stuff because it has an embedded “Ultrachip” processor 
There’s a git library of code too. https://github.com/plasticlogic

v6

This one has the entry gap canted 10° to take account of the wrist asymmetry.

In Progress

Misfire

Complete misfire on this version.  Somehow I managed to shrink the wrist width parameter and made it way too small.   Pretty much impossible to get on, and uncomfortably tight.

v7

Adjusted the parameters and re-printed.

The Good

  • It came out almost as intended this time
  • It flexes well
  • It fits snugly

    The Bad

    • It’s quite a lot harder to get on with the reduced gap
    • It’s still perhaps a bit too tight.
    • Top flexing
      If a display is to be mounted in the top surface then it has to be able to flex, or I have to find a design that doesn’t flex when you put it on.

    The Ugly

    • There was a minor printing issue.  The top-hat didn’t stick properly and it curled up.  This led to a small imperfection in the cuff itself.
    Here’s a brute force parametric model.  It took me two revisions to get it up to the point where it was worth printing.  It’ is indeed a crock of shit, but it highlights some of the more obvious problems.  There are parameters for every dimension so it should be easy to change the cavity size, width and wall thickness etc.
    The gray block in the second picture is a battery, and the green block is the DW1001.  I was looking at curved batteries, but I think it perhaps makes more sense to use two smaller LiPos mounted end-on at each end of the cavity.  Then I think the cavity can be a lot smaller.
    I’m thinking there will be a plug that somehow pushes into the open side of the cavity.  The plug could even have a couple of brass terminals for charging.
    I rendered it in a wood finish because it’s easier to see the shape. 
    I printed the cuff and a battery model using ABS to see how it fitted.

    The Good

    • The model printed!  
    • It flexes enough that I can force it over my wrist without it snapping
    • It is really snug.
    • The dummy-battery, DW1001, and tickler all fit inside OK with  to spare.  It doesn’t look that bad, considering it’s a first attempt.

    The Bad

    • The battery sagged, and it’s radius changed as it printed and I had to sand it down to fit which looks nasty. but it fits.

    • It’s translucent. Maybe nylon will be less so, or maybe I have to figure out how to make the translucency a feature.
    • It seems clear that “one size ‘fits’ all” isn’t going to work

    The Ugly

    • “Snug” is an understatement.